Konya Cuisine: Native and Original

Let’s get to know Nevin Halıcı, the doyenne of Turkish culinary culture, whose kindness, knowledge and culture I admire.

Could you tell us your life story?

I was born in Konya. I completed my primary, secondary and high school education in Konya. After Girls’ Technical Higher Teachers’ School, I completed my master’s degree at Selçuk University and my doctorate at Gazi University. I worked as a food teacher in Kızılcahamam, İzmir, Çumra and Konya. I am currently retired and live in Konya and İstanbul. My interest in food led me to become a food writer. I have published twenty-five books on Turkish Cuisine.

Which city do you think has the richest cuisine? 

If we put Istanbul Cuisine, also known as Turkish Cuisine, first, we can say Konya Cuisine. Konya Cuisine is the richest cuisine in every way, descending from the Seljuks and not influenced by foreign cuisines among the regions included in my research. 

Your area of expertise is Mevlevi cuisine. What is the connection between Ateşbaz-ı Veli and Turkish Culinary Culture and Mevlevi Dervishness? 

Ateşbaz-ı Veli is the head chef of Rumi. He is also the person in charge of dervish training. Ateşbaz-ı Veli’s rules related to Mevlevi are valid both in the kitchen and in training. Ateşbaz-ı Veli is the first cook to have a monumental tomb built in his name in the 13th century.

What is the place of salt in Mevlevi cuisine? 

Salt is sacred and important not only in Mevlevi Cuisine, but everywhere where food and cuisine are concerned. Traditionally, cooks would give each other salt as a gift when visiting.

What are the effects of Mevlevi cuisine on the Seljuks? 

It is almost the same as the period cuisine. However, a more distinguished cuisine than the folk cuisine is seen in the lodge. We can say that there have been transitions, without a doubt. 

Which Mevlevi dishes still exist today? 

In my district,Ardanuç, tutmaç and herise soup are also cooked. (I came across it in the past.) You can see it in detail in my book Mevlevi Cuisine. It is true that these two dishes are found in most parts of Anatolia. Originating from Central Asia, tuttuç and herise are soups made in the dervish lodges of the Seljuks. 

What are the effects of Seljuk cuisine on Ottoman cuisine in terms of food culture? 

The Seljuks have transferred territorial, administrative and military influences on many civilizations that came after them; cuisine is one of them. The Seljuk tradition has countless effects on Ottoman cuisine, from food to table settings.