Mevlevi Dishes

The ‘prescriptions’ given by the great Islamic scholar Rumi in his works are still an important part of Konya cuisine today... The famous Islamic thinker Rumi chose most of his symbols from nature while explaining his philosophy of life. Foods are also among these symbols. The phrase “I was raw, I was cooked, I was burned”, mentioned in Mevlana’s work Divan-ı Kebir, which collects his divine love poems, is an example of this. In addition to the information about Sufism, the famous scholar’s food recipes are also a gift from the food culture of his time...

RESPECT TO THE COOK

‘Kitchen’ has a very important place in the teaching of Sufism. This is where dervishes begin their training. The aim is to learn not only to cook, but also to respect the food that nature has made extraordinary efforts to offer to humanity. Great importance is given to the most efficient and appropriate use and consumption of food, which is why cooking was the most respected profession in the time of Rumi. In fact, it was a spiritual position. Mevlevis showed great respect to cooks because they skilfully cooked the blessings offered by the Almighty Creator and mediated the nutrition of the servants. The greatest proof of this respect is that when Rumi’s beloved cook Ateş-baz Veli (the saint who played with fire) died, a tomb was built in his name. The eternal resting place of Ateş-baz Veli, perhaps the only cook in the world for whom a mausoleum has been built, is located in the Meram district of Konya. Alan Davidson, the world’s famous food researcher, mentioned this place in one of his articles as follows: “We went to the tomb as tourists and returned as pilgrims.”

THANK GOD FOR EVERY BITE 

Sufis, who attach great importance to ‘Somat’ (table) manners, eat twice a day. Noon and evening... The table is prepared by the ‘dears’ (disciples). Salt carries ceremonial expression in meals. The meal begins and ends with it. Once the preparations are finished, it’s time to eat the meal. When Kazancı Dede opens the lid of the cauldron, the ‘cans’ take the cauldron from the stove. The dinner invitation is announced with Kazancı Dede’s prayer. The Sufis, who stand with their hands tied in front, bow their heads when they come to the door and sit at the table. The meal begins with the participation and prayer of the Sheikh. There is absolutely no talking during the meal. In Mevlevis, eating is almost a form of worship. While eating, they are constantly grateful for the morsels they are given. The meal is started and finished as a group.

FROM FISH SOUP TO ASHURE 

When Rumi’s works are examined, in the 13th century in Anatolia, vegetables such as leek, eggplant, zucchini, celery, spinach, onion and garlic; fruits such as apple, quince, pomegranate, pear, peach, fig, melon, watermelon; black-eyed peas, lentils, beans, chickpeas, broad beans from legumes; walnuts, almonds, hazelnuts, roasted chickpeas; dairy products such as cheese, yoghurt and ayran are consumed. Foods and beverages such as phyllo dough, tandoori bread, etli bread, pastry, bun, tutach, tirit, honey, molasses, halva, kadayıf, zerde and sherbet are also mentioned many times in Rumi’s works. Turkey’s valuable culinary culture researcher and cookbook author Nevin Halıcı’s latest work in English, ‘Sufi Cuisine’, contains extensive information on the dishes cooked by the Mevlevis. In addition, ‘Edirne Postnishini Ali Eşref Dede’s Food Treatise’, translated into modern Turkish by the poet Feyzi Halıcı, who lives in Konya, offers us a lot of information about the dishes in Mevlevi cuisine.

During the reign of Rumi, a culinary culture consisting of dishes prepared with simple ingredients was dominant due to the requirements of Sufism. In addition to the simplicity of the dishes in Sufi cuisine, their diversity is also a striking detail. From a wide variety of vegetable dishes to fish types... These recipes offered by Rumi are not only in books... Most of the people of Konya decorate their tables with the tastes of Sufis and they remember Rumi in every bite.

Celery Sote

Ingredients 

• 250 g lamb or mutton chops (cut into 4 pieces) 
• 2 tablespoons of ghee 
• 1 head of onion (chopped) 
• 1/2 kg celery 
• 3 cups broth (hot)
• A little salt 
• A bunch of grapevine or enough grape juice

Preparation 

Wash the meat and put it in the pot, put it on the stove. When the meat absorbs the broth it has released, add the oil and onion and fry until the onion turns yellow. 

Gather the meat in the middle of the pot. Sort and wash the celery. Lay the meat into the pot, starting from the edges. Add water, salt and cover the lid. When it starts to boil, add the grapefruit or grape juice. Cook over low heat for about 40-50 minutes until the celery becomes soft and drain the water. Cover your serving plate with the pot, turn it upside down and place the food on the plate. Serve together with the broth.

Carrot Dish with Molasses 

Ingredients 

• 1/2 kg carrots 
• 2 glasses of water 
• 2 tablespoons of ghee or butter 
• 2 tablespoons of rice 
• 1 cup sugar or grape molasses 

Preparation 

Peel the carrots, wash them, cut them into slices and place them in the pot. Add water and cover the lid. Cook over low heat for about thirty minutes until the carrots become soft. Add oil and rice. After 15-20 minutes, when the rice is cooked, pour sugar or molasses. After 5-10 minutes, when the water evaporates, remove it from the heat. Let it rest in the pot for ten minutes. Put it on a plate and serve hot.

Bulgur Pilaf with Chestnuts 

Ingredients 

1. 10-15 chestnuts 
2. 2 tablespoons currants 
3. 2 cups bulgur 
4. 3 cups broth
5. 200 g clarified butter 
6. 1 teaspoon of cinnamon 
7. 1 teaspoon of salt 

Preparation 

Score the chestnuts with a knife and roast them over the fire until their shells begin to separate. After peeling, cut it into two or three pieces. Crush the grapes in your palms, clean their stems and wash them. Put bulgur, chestnuts and currants in the pot. Salt the broth and boil. Add bulgur on top and cover it. Cook for three minutes on high heat, five minutes on medium heat, and then on low heat until the bulgur absorbs its water and becomes tender. Heat the oil in the pan and pour it over the bulgur pilaf. Sprinkle cinnamon on it and let it brew on very low heat for twenty minutes. Put it on a plate and serve with chicken cutlets and yoghurt.

Tirit

Tirit, which is essentially made by chopping fried bread into broth, is considered one of the important and humble dishes of Mevlevi cuisine. Because the logic of this dish is to prevent waste. Because the prepared broth is obtained by boiling the remaining cheap parts of animal meat, especially offal, and stale bread is chopped into it. In this way, both cheap meat and stale bread can be used. Menâkıbü’l Arifin mentions tirit, which is eaten by chopping or dipping bread into head broth (C.II/87, 130) and leg broth (C.I/163). In addition, the garlic yoghurt that Mevlana ate by chopping moldy bread was also called tirit.